Ristretto Roasters
3808 N Williams Ave- Portland
3520 NE 42d Ave – Portland
$2
I have nearly a crapload of cookbooks. The truth is, though, that only a handful of these are ones that I use on any kind of consistent basis – or any basis, for that fact. But when my friend Giovanna reviewed Good to the Grain a couple of months ago, it quickly became one of the few cookbooks I’ve come across lately that I felt the need to add to my collection.
In the meantime, however, a fact that should not be missed is this: the pastries at both Ristretto Roasters locations (with the exception of the donuts, from what I understand) are being made by the actual author of the book herself. Kim Boyce (who has roots in LA’s Campanille and Spago), it turns out, lives in Portland – and is currently supplying the coffeehouse with an rotating array of cookies, muffins, scones and sweet breads. I’m not sure how long this rare and extremely fortuitous arrangement is slated to last, so I recommend paying a visit sooner than later. I’ve now purchased the book three times – only to have given each one away as a gift.
But I will be getting my own copy – and plan to hold on to it for keeps this time – because it is a unique and highly usable book. I have long felt that all purpose white flour is waaaay overrated, and, as follows, way overused. Way. Now, I am not one to entirely eschew white flour; it has its raison d’etre to be sure (baguettes, croissants, sugar cookies). But please, there are so, so many other grains out there, coming to us in the form of unprocessed flours. Like rye and buckwheat. Millet, teff, and amaranth. Barley and quinoa. Whole wheat and corn, etc. The fact that they these are not incorporated more widely into sweet and savory pastries is a waste and a crime, if you ask me. Using exclusively white flour is like choosing apples as the only fruit you will ever eat , while turning your nose up at peaches, berries, pineapple, mango, oranges… You see where I’m going with this? Like I said, it doesn’t add up.
I think it is fair to say that many of us who came up in the era of the fruit juice-sweetened whole wheat and oat fig bar studded (read: tainted) with carob chips may have valid reason to bristle at something called a “whole grain cookie”. Good to the Grain, however, makes no apology for its use of whole grain flours – and no banner-waving for healthfulness at the cost of deliciousness. Because here’s the thing: whole grain flours are straight up good. They are complex and full-flavored, they are nutty and hearty, and they possess a texture not achieved by simple, processed white flour. Here’s the other thing: just because this cookie uses whole wheat flour (a relatively mainstream grain) does not mean that it scrimps on sugar, butter and eggs. Whole grains and animal by-products and refined sugars are not, praise the lord, mutually exclusive.
Some context: my adoration for oatmeal raisin cookies practically prevents me from ever eating oatmeal cookies containing anything other than raisins (or other chewy dried fruit such as cherries, apricots, etc). In other words, as much as I live for great chocolate, I don’t end up gravitating toward oatmeal cookies with chocolate chips (in lieu of raisins). I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: chocolate has its cookie: let the oatmeal have the raisin.
BUT… I know that there are many of you who would rather suck on stale Circus Peanuts than eat raisins. And I also realize that Carpe Cookie is becoming suspiciously omissive of chocolate chip cookies, so this one’s for the c.c.c. monsters out there .
A recipe for the oatmeal chocolate chunk is not actually in Good to the Grain, so I’m not sure if the oats are the sole whole grain or if whole wheat, barley or rye flour might be at play. (I’m awaiting an answer to this from the shop; will update as soon as I hear back.) In any case, this seems to be a good representation of the cookies and scones that are the book. It is thick and wide, maintaining a texture that is neither chewy nor cakey, but somewhere in between. It is toothsome. I know I overuse that word, but only because I am such a big fan of toothsome food and especially value it as a cookie quality. It has texture and body, and the brown sugar hit is strong – just how I like it. (I also highly value anything having to do with brown sugar, by the way.) Big props to Boyce for using high grade chocolate, but dare I say that there is too much chocolate? That one, single chunk on the left (in the cross-section shot) consumes one eighth of the entire cookie, making the ratio of oats to chocolate a little off balance for me. But if you like a little cookie with your chocolate – as opposed to vice-versa – you will not be complaining.
Bottom line: it’s a very good cookie. It is certainly worth your time – as if Ristretto’s top notch coffee wasn’t already enough of a reason around which to plan a field trip. If you do go, also check out the blueberry cornmeal cookie if it happens to be available; I love that one, too – chewy, buttery and corny. And the chocolate cacao nib cookie: so pleasing. Oh man, and the brown butter scone…damn, that really was a good scone….
Comment from Brooke – left in “Contact” section of blog. Copying it here so that others (all 6 of you!) can see:
Brooke writes:
I actually copied down a recipe from the cookbook while I was at Ristretto and made it the next day when I was there. The trail mix cookies also suffer from the tasty but giant chocolate chunks. At first I actually thought they might be Reeses peanut butter cups. But I still really really like them.
Hi Brooke,
So, you like the trail mix cookies at Ristretto – even with the milk chocolate?
Which recipe did you copy down and make?